Chess explained, Centre Pompidou, Paris

Two people. Sixty-four squares.

We met while touring the Opéra and decided to hang out. His name was Joey and I decided he looked trustworthy enough to take my picture with my fancy camera. Because until now all the selfie photos I’d taken were of me in mirrors and I was pretty sure I could catch him in a foot race. He was Canadian, harmless.

Opéra Garnier, selfie.

We were just passing through Centre Pompidou, on our way to a classical concert. Funny about plans, how quickly they can change.

Centre Pompidou is a cultural center I’ve heard characterized by more than a few guides as a building with its insides turned out, its multicolored exoskeleton that’s hard to resist imagining myself climbing all over like a giant jungle gym. A 2D Salvador Dalí– esque mural peers over his fountain’s lidless eyes, faceless lips and makeshift futbol field. None seem to regard his absurd Shhhhh (or Chuuuuttt en français). Continue reading “Chess explained, Centre Pompidou, Paris”

No one will tell you to take the bus in Paris (but why you should)

I was running late to the Opera (calm down, it was a guided tour, but as close as I could get to La Bohème, so I was happy) and my lunch date at Le Panthèon in the 5th recommended I take the bus over there. Ok, I thought, Why not?

Quelle surprise! It was actually nice!

The bus is easy to use – same carnet or tickets as the Metro (which you probably already have). It’s the cheapest – though unguided – tour of Paris you’ll get.  Continue reading “No one will tell you to take the bus in Paris (but why you should)”

Opéra Garnier. The place to see and be seen.

Chicago, circa early 2000s. Back then, Chris (former roommate and current bff) and I used to say, in the throes of our body-glitter dabbing, super shiny lip gloss toting, nightclub-going 20s, that getting ready to go out was half the fun of going out.

I suspect the ladies and bespoke gentlemen who were wealthy enough to have seats at L’Opéra Garnier felt the same, getting all gussied up in their crinoline and finery. (This is in no way comparing the 21st century depravities that are nightclubs in North America to opera houses. To be clear!) Continue reading “Opéra Garnier. The place to see and be seen.”

Shakespeare and Company, Paris. Quite possibly, the best bookstore in the world.

After leaving Saint Michel, I walked through some truly horrendous back streets turned Disney-fied tourist trap version of Paris over to Shakespeare and Company bookstore.

On the ground floor (no photos allowed), it’s bursting with English-language books, filled to the rafters. American and French bibliophiles who are used to cookie cutter, sterile, impersonal Barnes and Nobles or Fnac, respectively, will, I believe, find Shakespeare and Company refreshingly full of personality and with a definite point of view.

And not to confuse you more than necessary, bookstores in French are les libraries and libraries in French are les bibliothèques. Actually Shakespeare and Company is both, and more than that.  Continue reading “Shakespeare and Company, Paris. Quite possibly, the best bookstore in the world.”